Yucutan

Overview

There is so much to do on this leg of the journey that we will need to get together to discuss how long we have for the Yucutan. The basic idea is to start at Palenque, travel well into the Yucutan and visit a few places, and end up at Cancun. Palenque and Cancun are 'must do's so all of the other places are up for debate.

Palenque

The Maya ruins of Palenque

Background

We will definitely be going here

Palenque has been recommended to me as the best site for Maya ruins in the whole of Mexico and we simply must visit it, even though it is far away from the rest of the sites in the Yucutan. Set in thick jungle screeching with insects, Palenque is strongly linked to the lost cities of Guatemala while keeping its own distinctive style, and though it's not large - you can see everything in a morning - it is hauntingly beautiful. The town of Palenque is of little intrinsic interest to visitors and is best viewed simply as a base for exploring the ruins and waterfalls in the nearby hills. Alternatively, since there are a number of camping sites and cabañas near the ruins, we may not stay in town at all.

Maya Ruins

Getting to the site is no problem. Two combi services, Chambalu and Otolum, both on Allende between Hidalgo and the main street, run at least every 15 minutes from 6am to 6pm (US $0.70) and will stop anywhere along the road. The ruins are in a national park (daily 8am-5pm; archeological zone daily 8am-4:30pm, US $3.70 including museum) and guided tours are available from the entrance. Arrive early and climb the temples in the morning mist if you want to avoid the worst of the heat and the crowds. Apparantly, you can also bathe in the crystal-clear cascades of the Rio Otolum after visiting the tomb of a Maya ruler deep beneath the Templo de las Inscripciones. These are within the site of the ruins.

Waterfalls

There are nearby waterfalls at Agua Azul and Misol-Há. Sample custs are US $14.50 for an all-day trip to these two places. Agua Azul is 64km before Palenque . The whole area is exceptionally beautiful, with dozens of lesser falls above the developed area. If it's safe to walk upstream, you'll come across a perilous-looking bridge over the river and eventually you'll reach an impressove gorge. Higher up, the swimming is safer too. Misol-Há is 18km from Palenque and has a 25-metre waterfall which provides a stunning backdrop to a pool that's safe for swimming.

Transport

Busses:

• Mérida - 4 daily; 9 hours (departures via Campeche at 8am, 9am and 11:30pm)
• Cancún - 5 daily; 12 hours (first class)
• Also busses to Chetumal, Playa del Carmen, Mexico City (2 daily; 17 hours!), Tuxtle, Occosingo, San Cristóbal.

The main nearby transport hub is Villahermosa (15 daily; 2.5 hours) and it may be easier to get there and change for our onward journey.

Campeche

The streets of Campeche

This lovely walled city with narrow streets and pastel-coloured houses is immaculately kept by its proud citizens.

Mérida

Cathedral at Merida

Although the "White City" is the largest on the peninsula - alive with music and Sunday markets - it retains a tranquil charm.

Chichén Itzá

Maya ruins of Chichen Itza

Visit the most famous Maya site, with its vertiginous temple, Chac-mool figures and dramatic, snail-shaped observatory.

Tulúm

Coast of Tulum

One of the longest, whitest sandy beachers in the Caribbean, with turquoise water and candlelit cabañs near ancient ruins.

Cancún

White beaches of Cancun

We will definitely be going here

Our transport link to Cuba, Cancún, has lots of things to do. It doesn't seem so much of a cultural place but very busy and exciting. Its highlights are its striking modern hotels, hectic nightlife and high-energy entertainment including parachuting, jet skiing, scuba diving and golf. It appears to be a suitable base to explore some of the beaches on the East coast.